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Naturally Aspirated B18C1 Motor Buildup Guide [Page > 1 2 3 ]

There's only two ways to build a motor - Forced induction or natural aspiration. Two completely different schools of thought. In order to maintain reliability NA is the only way to go. Dollar for dollar you can easily burn a hole in your wallet to keep up with a forced inducted motor if you try to keep up NA.

To attain high out from any NA motor, compression is the key. 10:1cr from the Integra GSR motor and an awesome 10.6:1cr from the ITR motor were unheard of only a few years ago. Not to mention the ability to rev like a motorcycle to an awesome 8400rpms from the factory is quite an accomplishment.


We build up this GSR B18C1 motor to the hilt. Raising the compression to an astounding 11.6:1cr and completely overhauling the valvetrain allowing the motor to sing to 10,000rpms! Of course caution must be taken when going to these lengths. Fuel and timing must also be taken into consideration.


Disclaimer: The following is intended as a guide only and should be treated as such. Its purpose is to show you what is involved in the process of such a buildup. There are much more time intesive and painstaking steps involved that we do not show or cover. We must stress the patience is very important when doing such a job and do not expect this to be an overnight or weekend escapade.

The first thing to do is pull the motor. Done in record time - 45mins
Once the motor was torn down, the first part of building a strong NA monster is a crazy valvetrain. Here we install ITR outer spings and Portflow inner springs and titanium retainers. This should be good for 10,000rpms redline.
When you do the tear down, cleanliness and organization is key. Make sure you label everything and Ziplock bags come in real handy and are perfect for the job.
Make sure you replace all the components in the same location that you removed them from as they each have different wear characteristics. Also be sure to soak the lost motion assembly in oil before you install it back into the head or else you might end up with some loud ticking afterwards.
Be careful when removing and installing the valve lifter shafts. They are specific to the intake and exhaust side and are keyed for up and down direction.
Here you can see the individual components of the valve lifters. You can see the small piston that is oil activated to engage VTEC. Also make sure you install the oil control orifices correctly.
Make sure you have the lifters correctly installed and the oil control orifices in place. Then torque the end caps to spec.
When you install the new valve springs, make sure you take notice to the direction they are facing. There is an up and down to them. The ITR springs are colored blue and yellow. Be sure the colored side faces up. Blue on the exhaust side and yellow on the intake side.
To install the valve keepers, use a valve spring compressor. Then carefully place the keepers onto the valve stem and gently release the spring compressor. Patience and practice is vital at this stage.

[Page > 1 2 3 ]

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